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How Does Laser Hair Removal Work?

How laser hair removal works to kill or disable hair follicles

It is important to pick the right laser for both your skin type and your hair color. Diode lasers have long been the best lasers for laser hair removal showing the greatest effectiveness in hair loss per treatment. 

There are three classes of lasers on the market currently and all have their pros and cons. 

  • Alexandrite

    • These lasers are a 755nm wavelength and target the pigment in the hair. These are useful on skin types 1-3 (white, light colored skin). If you tan well, this is likely not a good choice for you as there is a greater chance of burning your skin with these types of lasers. However, one of the benefits of these lasers is the client typically gets a fairly immediate shedding response, where the hair will fall out with in a day or two. These lasers are a little harder on your skin but they can also be used to treat some other conditions as well such as toe fungus and remove some different skin lesions/discolorations as well. ​

  • Diode

    • We utilize these lasers. They are an 800nm wavelength laser which targets the pigment in the hair to heat it up and denature the hair follicle to prevent it from being able to produce new hair. They are the fastest of the three types and they are safe on all skin types, however because these lasers also target the pigment in the hair like the alexandrite lasers, skin types 5-6 (dark skin types) we typically refer out for an Nd:Yag laser as they tend to be more effective and less painful. ​

    • The major difference between Diode and alexandrite lasers are Diodes are typically more gentle on the skin having less heat due to the use of ultrasound gel and mechanical cooling and that diode treatments don't typically result in the immediate shedding of the hair.  While Diode lasers do a better job of long term hair removal, some clients who have had alexandrite treatments previously may feel it didn't work as well due to this. Just remember, laser hair removal is about long term results, not temporary hair loss, so go with the best or just get waxed if you want to be temporarily hair free immediately.

  • Nd:Yag 

    • These lasers utilize a 1064nm wavelength and target the blood supply to the hair instead of the pigment in the hair itself. These are typically less effective, but the safest option for people with dark skin types. ​These lasers also don't work on white hair unfortunately. 

  • Electrolysis

    • While this isn't a laser, it utilizes a fine wire filament that is used to slide down each hair follicle and it heats up to burn the follicle (simply put). The benefit of this type of treatment over laser hair removal is it works on all skin types and all hair colors. The major downside is it is painful, very time consuming, and significantly more expensive. However, this can be used with greater precision when treating areas like the eyebrows where lasers will have some spread beyond the target area which may be undesirable depending on the location of treatment (ie eyebrows). ​

If you're wondering what skin type you are, check out the Fitspatrick skin type scale to determine which laser type is best for you. 

Fitzpatrick Scale:

Skin Type                   Typical Features                                               Tanning Ability

     I                  Pale white skin; red or blond hair;                       Always burns, never tans

                         blue/green eyes; freckles

    II                  Fair skin; red or blond hair;                                Burns easily, tans with difficulty

                       blue, hazel, or green eyes

    III                 Darker white; any eye or hair color                     Sometimes mild burn, gradually tans

    IV                Light brown skin                                               Burns only slightly, tans easily

    V.                Brown skin                                                      Rarely burns, easily tans darkly

    VI.               Dark brown or black skin                                   Never burns, always tans darkly very                                                                                             easily

Why Do I Need Multiple Laser Hair Removal Treatments?

At any given time you only have about 10% of your hair in an active growth cycle and lasers can only treat hair during this time. To completely eliminate all the hair, you need to kill the follicles while they are in an active growth phase. This means, you'll need around 10-12 treatments to ensure every hair cycle gets treated when its in its active growth phase.  To understand this completely, we should go over the phases of hair growth. 

Phases of Hair Growth

  1. Anagen phase:​​

    • This is the active growth phase where our lasers can affect the follicle and ensure that it won't be able to produce hair again. This phase only lasts for a few weeks ​

  2. Catagen phase:​

    • This phase is like the turning of the leaves in fall. The hair stops growing as it transitions to its dormancy period. ​

  3. Telogen phase:​

    • This is the resting phase of the hair cycle. Lasers cannot treat these follicles as there is nothing to target at this time to disable them. This phase can take up to a year. ​

The Importance of Treatment Intervals​

To get the best results out of your laser hair removal treatment, it is especially important to follow your specialists treatment plan exactly. Different areas of the body have longer or shorter hair cycles, so the treatment windows will vary slightly. In general, anything above the shoulders will require a treatment every 4-5 weeks, while lower body treatments generally require a treatment every 6-8 weeks. If you miss this window, the hair cycle for that time period may get missed and it can take several months to a year to resurface before we get an opportunity to treat it again. 

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